Mossy trees, azure and turquoise lake, dense forests and black swans are just some of the treats waiting for hikers along the Waikaremoana Track on New Zealand’s North Island. For anyone backpacking in New Zealand, this hike is well worth the effort!

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What You Need To Know

For more details on traveling to New Zealand, see our post: How to Plan a New Zealand Backpacking Trip

For more details on the gear we used in New Zealand, see our post: Backpacking in New Zealand: Trip Overview and Gear List

• Water Taxi / Shuttle – you will need to book a water taxi well in advance for transport to and from the trailheads to the Waikaremoana Holiday Park and other drop off locations. You can find information for booking a water taxi here as well as other shuttle information.

• Steep Inclines – be especially prepared for the big ascent/descent in the southern portion of the track

• Sand Flies – bring the bug spray and be prepared to cover up your arms and legs. Their bites itch like mad!

• Consider bringing a towel – If you don’t mind lugging it around, you will have plenty of opportunities to swim in the lake.

• Book Huts/Campsites Well In Advance – like all of New Zealand’s Great Walks, you must book all your nights at huts/campsites though the DOC website in advance of your stay. Although the Waikaremoana Track is somewhat less traveled than some of the other Great Walks, you should still book your nights at least a couple months in advance (preferably longer) so they don’t fill up. You can book and find other relevant information on the DOC website here.

Our Trip

Being the first of four Great Walks planned on our month-long trip to New Zealand, we really did not know what to expect. After a three hour drive from Napier on winding roads (the last 15 miles or so on gravel), we arrived at the Waikaremoana Holiday Park. We camped for a day and a half before starting our hike.

Here is what our hike looked like:

Day 1: Onepoto Bay Shelter to Waiopaoa Hut & Campsite (10.5 miles)

The first morning we took a water taxi from the Holiday Park across Lake Waikaremoana to Onepoto Bay Shelter, where the track officially begins. The trail almost immediately began a steep ascent for two miles. We were thankful for the cool morning air, but even so, we were soon drenched in sweat. The trail rewarded us when we arrived at Panekire Bluff, which offered incredible views of Lake Waikaremoana and the hills and mountains surrounding its shores. Similar views were peppered along the next few miles of choppy ups and downs.

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The forests at this higher elevation were gorgeous. The forest floor was largely comprised of ferns and moss-covered rocks and fallen trees while lichen-covered deciduous trees towered above us. It felt like a sunny Pacific Northwest with a pinch of Hawaii thrown in.

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After several miles and a quick rest at Panekire Hut, we began our descent down steep hills, staircases and rocks all the way back to lake-level. This descent did a number on the knees and ankles, but soon enough we arrived at Waiopaoa Hut & Campsite. On paper, we hiked 10.5 miles, though it felt much longer (perhaps due to the 356 “flights of stairs” we climbed, according to my FitBit).

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At the campsite, we found a secluded campsite with access to the lake not more than fifty feet away. We waded into the frigid water to “ice” our sore joints and tired muscles. Black swans glided across the lake, giving the whole place a magical ambiance.

A group of Tuhoe Maori bush guides were also staying at the site. They generously offered us their leftover food – six bratwursts and a large bowl of coleslaw (strangely familiar to my American palate!). We happily accepted this as a welcome addition to our ramen dinner.

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Day 2: Waiopaoa Hut & Campsite to Maranui Campsite (7.5 miles)

I slept like a rock after our first day. The next morning we broke down camp and left early to make the most of some brisk morning hiking. After a hour and a half of several lakeshore views and flowery fields, we arrived at Korokoro Hut & Campsite where we refilled our water bottles. Opposite the hut was a 30 minute side trail to Korokoro Falls. We dropped our packs at the trailhead and made our way toward the falls. The trail was rugged and beautiful. We especially enjoyed the river crossing that required hikers to grab onto a wire as they made their way across the boulders.

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The trail then ascended steeply until we could hear the sound of the falls through the trees. At the top of the ascent we were met with a fine spray of mist and a spectacular view of Korokoro Falls, a perfect drape of water surrounded by lush green forest.

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After hiking back to our packs near Korokoro Hut, we continued along the main trail for a few more hours before reaching Maranui Campsite, our destination for the day. We set up camp and wandered down to the lake to “ice” our legs again in the frigid water.

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Day 3: Maranui Campsite to Whanganui Hut (10.5 miles)

We had some beautiful morning hiking on our last full day on this track. The views of the lake never grew old. One of them this particular morning stopped me in my tracks and kept me staring for several minutes.

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We crossed over suspension bridges and navigated large patches of mud due to the rain that swept through the area the previous night (luckily not over our camp!). The trail led us to Whanganui Hut by early afternoon. After claiming a bunk in the Hut and dropping our packs, we continued on to the trail’s end. Our legs felt heavy as we ascended a long incline before descending steep switchbacks all the way back down to lake level. We relaxed on the beach before making our way back to the hut and enjoying some water out of the nearby stream.

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We were the only ones in the hut; the other hikers had taken the afternoon water taxi back to the Holiday Park- a move we likely would have made had we had been more confident in our timing as we planned the trip. We savored the rest of the day and spent the night alone before taking the water taxi back to Onepoto the next morning.

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Summary

Overall, I was thoroughly delighted by the Waikaremoana Track. I did not know what to expect, and it delivered stunning views, beautiful forests, and a lack of crowds which made it a truly special experience. Like most of New Zealand, you can expect an eclectic mix of scenery on the Waikaremoana Track. Mossy trees enchanted some sections, while others offered lakeside beaches to lie in the sun. It is definitely worth getting off the beaten path to spend a few days hiking in this beautiful place.

Happy Hiking!

— Motown

Read more: New Zealand Great Walks- Tongariro Northern Circuit

Read more: New Zealand Great Walks- Abel Tasman Coast Track

Read more: New Zealand Great Walks- Heaphy Track

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