Tongariro National Park is a world treasure. From Mount Ngaurahoe, Mount Ruapehu, the Emerald Lakes, Red Crater, and more, this track offers incredible views and eclectic scenery like I have never seen before. For anyone backpacking in New Zealand, the Tongariro Northern Circuit is an absolute must.

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What You Need to Know:

For more details on traveling to New Zealand, see our post: How to Plan a New Zealand Backpacking Trip

For more details on the gear we used, see our post: Backpacking in New Zealand: Trip Overview and Gear List

• Physical strain – while certainly no Everest, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing has some steep ascents that can take a toll on those who are not physically fit for the challenge. (I should note that an older gentleman died on the day of our crossing from a heart attack.) However, most of the track is comparatively of low intensity.
• Weather – there is plenty of signage along the Tongariro Alpine Crossing telling hikers to turn back if they feel too fatigued or if the weather looks poor. Deaths do occur on this trail and can be caused by weather related incidents such as low visibility. The weather can be unpredictable in the area and your hike may get cancelled at the last minute – just be aware.
• Clothing – Speaking of weather, be sure to pack layers. Temperatures can fluctuate greatly depending on the time of day and elevation.
• Sand Flies – there are lots of these nasty little bugs at dusk and they can’t resist hikers’ feet and ankles. Be sure to bring tropical strength bug spray and clothing that can cover you well enough to avoid bites.
• SUNSCREEN & HAT- New Zealand’s UV intensity compounded with relatively high altitude makes for high sunburn risk. I witnessed some unprepared hikers, who failed to put on sunscreen or hats, get blistered foreheads. Wear sunscreen. Wear a hat.
• Book huts/campsites well in advance. Like all of New Zealand’s Great Walks, you will need to book your stays in the huts and campsites ahead of time or face a heavy fine. The sooner the better because they can fill up fast. We booked our trip about two months in advance and faced very limited availability. You can find booking information here.

Our Trip

The Tongariro Northern Circuit was probably what I most looked forward to on our month-long backpacking trip to New Zealand, and boy did it deliver! The Tongariro Alpine Crossing was one of, if not the, most memorable hikes of my life. If you are backpacking in New Zealand and find yourself on the North Island, you would be a fool not to hike this track or at least the alpine crossing day hike.

Here is what our trip looked like:

Day 0: Taranaki Falls Hike (~5-mile round trip)

The day before starting the Tongariro Northern Circuit, we hiked to Taranaki Falls. The falls and surrounding scenery were gorgeous – a must-see in Tongariro National Park. (It is accessed off the Circuit Track itself, and is doable as part of the Great Walk).

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Day 1: Whakapapa Holiday Park to Mangatepopo Hut & Campsite (5.3 miles)

We started the trail early to take advantage of the beautiful morning hiking. Due to the rugged terrain and all of the photo-worthy scenery, it took us most of the morning to hike five miles to our campsite. Rain the previous night while camping at Whakapapa Holiday Park and heavy condensation made the rain fly was sopping wet. I used a couple carabiners to hook it on to the back of my pack and wore it like a cape all morning to let it dry out.

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The hiking was beautiful and rugged. It was brisk, sunny with clouds, and the vegetation was scrubby and glowing with white Manuka flowers. Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngaurahoe were always in view, the latter often shrouded in clouds at its base with its cone peak standing above the mist.

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The whole landscape had an eerie beauty and felt like it should belong in some fantasy novel. So much so, that I was certain a dragon was nestled in one of the folds in the hills.

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Day 2: Mangatepopo Hut & Campsite to Oturere Hut (8 miles)

This day offered one of the best hikes of my life thus far. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing was a truly incredible experience, some of the best backpacking that New Zealand has to offer. Because of heavy foot traffic from day hikers on this particular section, we woke up before 6AM to hit the trail early. As we packed up camp, heavy mist made it difficult to see past our hilltop campsite. We were nervous for what our visibility would be like throughout the day.

We were on the trail before 7AM and already there were several day-hikers. However, we were glad to have beaten the main crowd. We made our way northeast with Mount Ngaurahoe on our right. Much of the early morning’s mist had cleared, but a small cloud capped Ngaurahoe’s summit while the sun rose over its left shoulder. Ngaurahoe was so immense and brooding, it seemed like the sun only rose because the mountain allowed it.

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Farther on, we made a short detour to Soda Springs:

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We soon began the ascent to the alpine crossing. It started out rather tame – a few flights of stairs and rocky inclines. We saw at least a few signs that warned hikers to turn back if they were not confident in their fitness or the weather. The ascent became more and more demanding until we had about a half mile of flat ground where Ngaurahoe loomed to our right.

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Then came the push up to the crossing – at least a quarter mile of intense incline with frigid gusts of wind. We placed one foot in front of the other until finally making it to the top where Red Crater dropped down into a ruddy abyss below.

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After some well-earned photos, we began our descent toward the Emerald Lakes. The descent was not only steep, but the track was composed of thick scree. It was a little difficult coming down, but we did fine by keeping our momentum, stopping only for some irresistible photo-ops. When we reached the Emerald Lakes, I was dumbstruck. The brilliant greens and blues contrasted against red and orange rocks were gorgeous. I must have taken 100 photos.

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The whole area reeked of sulfur. Several gas vents belched out big clouds and creeping mists of sulfur dioxide. After spending no small amount of time there and eating lunch, we moved on toward Oturere Hut. We made a long and steep descent over loose rock before the track flattened out for the rest of our hike through the desert. Although it didn’t offer the same breathtaking views we had earlier in the day, it was still an incredible hike in its own right. We had split off from the day hikers and it had grown perfectly quiet – an eerie, beautiful desolation. We made it to the hut by 1PM and relaxed for the rest of the day.

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Day 3: Oturere Hut to Waihohonu Hut (4.7 miles)

We got a later start this day, having only 5 miles to hike. We walked over a long, exposed desert stretch before going over a forested ridge. Mount Ruapehu offered us wonderful views.

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We made it to the Waihohonu Hut by 10:30AM. A rescue helicopter had just landed there and someone was being loaded on and taken away. We learned from the warden that this individual had decided to summit a nearby peak the night before… alone… while tripping on mescaline…! He apparently took a tumble down some rocks, made his way to the hut by morning, and insisted a helicopter come pick him up. The warden said that was a first for him!

*** Pro-tip: If you are backpacking on the Tongariro Northern Circuit, avoid hiking mountains by yourself at night while tripping on hallucinogenic drugs ; )

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Since it was still early in the day, we debated whether to stay or hike the remaining 9 miles of the track and find accommodations elsewhere. However, this hut was spectacular. The warden also filled us in on some places to explore in the surrounding area – so we decided to stay. We took a mile-long trail to Ohinepango Springs. The water was deliciously clean, ice cold, and the source of a crystal-blue creek that we could barely stand in for one minute before the cold became unbearable.

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Day 4: Waihohonu Hut to Whakapapa Holiday Park (8.9 miles)

We were the first ones out of the hut. The moon still clung to the night as the sun rose and illuminated Mount Ngaurahoe.

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The remaining 9 miles of the track were largely exposed so we were thankful for such an early start. It was beautiful morning hiking but could have been miserably hot later in the day. Mount Ngaurahoe and Mount Ruapehu were almost always in view. I felt a serene peace as I savored our last hours in this incredible place.

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Summary

The Tongariro Northern Circuit held some of the most memorable hiking of my life. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing section was an absolutely stunning experience and should be on every hiker’s bucket list. The huts are generally above par, the scenery is continuously breathtaking, and the trail community is rich. If you are ever backpacking in New Zealand and visiting the North Island, the Tongariro Northern Circuit is nothing short of mandatory.

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Happy Hiking!

— Kris

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