An eclectic mix of mountains, enchanted forest, beaches, caves, and heath-blanketed downs await hikers along New Zealand’s Heaphy Track. For anyone backpacking in the South Island, the Heaphy Track highlights New Zealand’s diverse and rugged beauty.
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What you need to know
For more details on traveling to New Zealand, see our post: How to Plan a New Zealand Backpacking Trip
For more info on the gear we used, see our post: Backpacking in New Zealand: Trip Overview and Gear List
- Transportation- while one of the charms of the Heaphy Track is its remoteness, it also means this track can be difficult to get to. We used the Heaphy Bus Company to travel from Nelson to Brown Hut and back to Nelson from Karamea at the end of our hike. Be sure when scheduling your trip to plan around the bus schedule, as the pick up locations are only available on certain days of the week. You also may want to schedule a ride from Kohaihai Shelter at the Heaphy Track’s terminus to Karamea if you plan to stay in town after completing the track. We were blessed by an older couple who offered to drive us into town, but not everyone can be so lucky!
- Sand flies- bring the bug spray and be prepared to cover up your arms and legs. Their bites itch like mad!
- Book Huts/Campsites Well In Advance – like all of New Zealand’s Great Walks, you must book all your nights at huts/campsites though the DOC website in advance of your stay or face a heavy fine. You should book your nights at least a couple months in advance (preferably longer) in case they fill up. You can book and find other relevant information here.
Our Trip
The Heaphy Track was our fourth and final Great Walk during our month-long New Zealand trip. The track was the perfect goodbye to this beautiful country. Having previously hiked the Waikaremoana Track, Tongariro Northern Circuit, and Abel Tasman Coast Track, the Heaphy Track offered a taste of each track’s unique landscape in addition to its own character.
Here’s what our trip looked like:
Day 1: Brown Hut to Gouland Downs Hut (15.25 miles)
After our 3.5-hour shuttle from Nelson, we arrived at Brown Hut around 11 AM. Having a late start and a long day ahead of us, we took right to the trail. There were 11 miles of near-constant incline before arriving at Perry Saddle Hut. Despite the incline and our full packs, we enjoyed the beautiful forest and views of the surrounding mountains.
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After a break at Perry Saddle Hut, we made our way toward the Gouland Downs. The landscape changed dramatically as dense forests were replaced by heath-blanketed downs.
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We were lucky to see a pair of takahe on the trail.
These strange and large birds looked like they belonged in prehistoric times:
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We pushed on for an additional four miles to the old Gouland Downs Hut. There was one other hiker, a Brit, whom we shared the evening with before retiring for the night.
Day 2: Gouland Downs Hut to James Mackay Hut (10.7 miles)
The “Enchanted Forest”
We woke up to a foggy morning and hit the trail early. The “enchanted forest” section of the Heaphy Track was a short walk from the Gouland Downs hut. It truly was enchanted. Lichen-covered trees towered above ferns and moss carpeting the forest floor.
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If you pay attention to the cairns, you will be led off the main track to a cave filled with stalagmites and stalactites:
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The track continued on through more downs. Fog and mist hovered in the air and covered the mountaintops.
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We began the day’s ascent through a mossy, psychedelic forest that was nothing short of surreal.
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The sun soon burned away the mist and shone all the way to James Mackay Hut. A couple dozen hikers joined us and made for a lively night in the hut.
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… and a very smelly entry way!
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Day 3: James Mackay Hut to Heaphy Hut (9.3 miles)
From James Mackay Hut we walked several miles on a decline – a welcome break from the inclines of the previous two days. When we reached lower elevation, the landscape changed yet again. Palm trees now dominated the vegetation, while the occasional centuries-old rata tree towered above.
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We followed a river all the way to the coast. Soon after, we reached Heaphy Hut and enjoyed the rest of the day strolling on the beach.
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In the early evening, we backtracked a couple miles to explore a small cave hidden next to a bridge crossing. A handful of glow worms clung to the ceiling.
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Day 4: Heaphy Hut to Trail End (~10 miles)
Our last day on the Heaphy Track was easy hiking along the coast. While we did not see any kiwis, we did come across some footprints (noticeably larger than those of the weka in the area).
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Palm forests and vast ocean panoramas were the order of the day and a wonderful way to cap off our trip to this gorgeous country.
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Summary
The Heaphy Track on New Zealand’s South Island is a beautiful, eclectic mix of the rugged and diverse landscapes that New Zealand is famous for. Each day offers a completely different experience – it hardly seems possible that it all could be included in one walk. If you are ever backpacking in New Zealand, make sure to include this one on your list!
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Happy Hiking!
— Kris
Read more: New Zealand Great Walks- Waikaremoana Track
Read more: New Zealand Great Walks- Tongariro Northern Circuit
David Rough
March 29, 2020 8:27 pmAnother great post. The caves look like an adventure calling! IT sounds and looks like the four-day trek was loads of fun. Thanks for sharing.
Kris
April 23, 2020 12:36 pmThanks, Rowdy! Those caves were pretty special. The Heaphy Track was a really cool, eclectic hike!